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Have you ever had the experience where an iPhone is suddenly not ringing on incoming calls, or making any sounds when a new message arrives? The mute button isn’t turned on, so what on earth is going on, right? This is surprisingly common experience for those who are more novice iPhone users, and after troubleshooting this a dozen or so times with relatives and friends (usually with young kids), it’s probably worth discussing here, if not for you personally than perhaps for the other people in your life.
“My iPhone Won’t Ring, Help!” Don’t Worry, Here’s Why
With almost certain guarantee, the reason an iPhone is not ringing or making alert sounds apparently out of the blue is because of the Do Not Disturb feature, or because the Mute switch has been toggled on.
Next up there is ‘Do Not Disturb’ mode to check for. Do Not Disturb is absolutely fantastic when you use it properly and set a schedule for it, but if you’re not versed in how it works, it can be accidentally toggled on and lead to all sorts of confusion and missed calls or seemingly ignored text messages.
The easiest way to determine if Do Not Disturb is causing your iPhone not to ring, and causing you to miss iPhone calls and alert sounds, is to look in the status bar of the device. Do you see a little moon icon?
If you see the moon icon in the status bar of iPhone, that’s Do Not Disturb, and when it’s on the iPhone is completely silent from all alerts, notifications, calls, everything. Do Not Disturb mode will stop your iPhone from ringing if it is enabled. If your iPhone won’t ring or make alerts sounds, this is probably why! So, we need to turn off Do Not Disturb mode!
All you need to do is to swipe up from the bottom of the screen to show Control Center, and tap the moon icon again so that it’s not highlighted, this turns off Do Not Disturb and you’ll be back to receiving call notifications, ringing, messages, and sound alerts again.
As long as you turn off Do Not Disturb the iPhone will ring and get alerts again.
Another way to turn off Do Not Disturb mode is through the Settings app on iPhone, it doesn’t matter which way you choose to turn this off, but if you want the iPhone to ring again and to get alerts again, it must be turned off. Here’s how to disable Do Not Disturb in Settings app of iPhone:
Open the Settings app
Choose “Do Not Disturb” (look for the moon icon!)
Next to the “Manual” setting, turn the switch to the OFF position
As long as Do Not Disturb is off, the iPhone will ring and the iPhone will get alerts, sounds, and messages. If Do Not Disturb is turned on, the iPhone will not ring, the iPhone won’t get alerts or sounds or messages. That’s why it’s called Do Not Disturb, it offers silence when it’s enabled.
I know what you’re thinking*, you’re thinking “Well I never enabled that!” well, because it’s fairly easy to toggle on unintentionally through Control Center, it often just becomes enabled. This is particularly true for users with toddlers and little ones who are playing around with a parents or relatives iPhone, and I find it not so coincidental that a majority of the “ahhh my iPhone is broken it’s not ringing or making any sounds ahhhh!” freak outs come from parents or grandparents with children around. The reality is it’s really easy to toggle this feature on without intending to, and if you don’t know what to look for (many don’t!) this can cause some serious grief. I had a relatively actually take their iPhone to their carrier store because of this… so yea, sometimes really simple things can cause a lot of frustration.iPhone Is Not Ringing? Check Mute, Check Do Not Disturb, Check AirPlane
So, let’s summarize and recap so that you can remember what to do if your iPhone is suddenly not ringing, and you’re missing calls and text message alerts;
First check that Mute button, it’s the physical switch on the side of the iPhone, and if it is toggled then it will silence all calls, ringing, messages and notifications and alerts, everything will be muted
Next check Do Not Disturb, which also silences the iPhone
And finally, you can check Airplane Mode too (look for the little airplane icon in the status bar, when this is on all communications are turned off on the phone)
One of those is almost certainly the cause of your worries, and it’s extremely unlikely the iPhone itself has some sudden defect or issue – unless it took a bath, anyway.
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It seems a common problem for Android users is that it might get stuck in Safe Mode. While in Safe Mode, you might not be able to do much on the device since much of the software required for normal functionality isn’t loaded. Your device might say “No Service” or have problems running apps. App icons may also appear grayed out.
Don’t worry though. We’ve got some things you can try to get your Android out of Safe Mode. The methods to get out of Safe Mode can vary on each device. Here are some ways that generally work with most devices.1. Power Completely Off
Power completely down by pressing and holding the “Power” button, then select “Power off“. Do NOT select “Restart” or “Reboot”. Many Android devices will stay in Safe Mode if you select “Restart” or “Reboot”.
Once the device is powered off, wait about 2 minutes, then turn the device back on.2. Check for Stuck Buttons
This is the most common cause for being stuck in Safe Mode. Safe Mode is usually enabled by pressing and holding a button while the device is starting. Common buttons you would hold are the volume up, volume down, or menu buttons. If one of these buttons are stuck or the device is defective and registers a button is being pressed, it will continue to start in Safe Mode.
Ensure none of the buttons are held down by a foreign object or an accessory. Remove the device out of its case to be sure that’s not the cause. Give each button on the device a push to test out if they stick in any way. You may need to clean the buttons with a damp cloth in some cases.3. Force Reset
Try to force reset the device by holding down the Power and Volume Down buttons until the device restarts.4. Battery Pull (If Possible)
If a simple power down doesn’t do the trick, pull the battery if you own an Android device with a removable battery. Wait about a minute or two before inserting the battery back into the compartment and powering the device back on.
If you can’t remove the battery, you may consider letting the device run out of power intentionally before charging the device and powering it on again.5. Uninstall Recently Installed Apps 6. Wipe Cache Partition (Dalvik Cache)
The Android OS stores data in a cache partition. That data can sometimes cause your Android to endlessly be in Safe Mode. Steps for clearing the cache partition can vary with each device. Consult the documentation provided with your device about how to enter Recovery Mode.7. Factory Reset 8. Hardware Issue
If you have tried all of the above attempts to fix your Android, you are most likely looking at a hardware issue with your device. It’s possible the mechanism that controls one of the buttons is broken. It could also be some other internal hardware issue. At this point, your best bet is to contact your carrier or the device manufacturer for a replacement.
Did this post help you get your Android out of Safe Mode? Let us know what worked for you in the Comments section below.
Do not buy used iPhone or phone without doing this first! For anyone shopping for a used iPhone or Android phone, your top priority should be to check to find out if the iPhone or phone has been stolen or reported as lost.
The reason is simple; a stolen iPhone or phone that has been reported as lost may not work at all if the cellular carrier has blocked the device from accessing a wireless network, this essentially means that buying a stolen iPhone or phone could be a waste of the money (not to mention engaging in the trade of stolen goods).
The good news is the CTIA, which represents the US wireless communications industry, has setup a super easy to use website that allows you to easily check to find out if any iPhone or any smart phone has been stolen or reported as lost.
The website is aptly named chúng tôi and it works by running an IMEI, MEID, or ESN number through the database and it will report back if a device has been reported as lost or stolen.How to Check If You’re Buying a Stolen iPhone or Android Phone
This is a super easy two-step process, all you need is the phones IMEI number and you can run it against a central database setup by the phone companies:
Get the IMEI number from the iPhone or Android phone, you can also do this by dialing *#06# on the phone
Go to chúng tôi here to check and enter your IMEI number into the website
If the iPhone or phone is reported as stolen or lost, you should strongly consider NOT buying it and instead finding a different device to buy
That’s all there is to it, you can check up to five devices IMEI numbers per day to see if they are stolen or lost or not.
Always do this before you buy a used phone!
To be clear, there is absolutely nothing wrong with buying a used iPhone or smartphone – I have personally bought used phones myself on multiple occasions. I usually aim for refurbished iPhones with a simple return policy where if it doesn’t work for whatever reason right away then it can be returned easily. The seemingly too-good-to-be-true deals that are found on auctions, eBay, or craigslist are almost always too good to be true, a recent model pre-owned iPhone will never realistically sell for $100 or some low sum. If the price is too good, or too cheap, or the seller is sketchy, be skeptical. Always check the IMEI first.
Makes sense, right? So don’t skip this if you’re in the used phone market, you could save yourself a real headache and a waste of money. It’s likely this service won’t detect every single lost or inappropriately owned phone, particularly if they have not been reported as missing yet, but it’s certainly worth running a check through just in case.
Oh and one more thing; if you’re buying a used iPhone then don’t forget to have the prior iPhone owner delete their iCloud account from the device and log out of iCloud on the device completely and then reset it to factory settings. While you can remotely remove iCloud activation lock it is more annoying and it’s much better handled by the owner in person. Apple used to offer a way to check this online but that page has been down for some time, perhaps it will return in the future. Almost all good phone refurbishing services and certified resellers will reset the devices and make sure they’re not locked down, but it’s always good to ask and be sure.
Have you finally realized you need more RAM? Or did you figure out your current RAM sticks are faulty after a diagnosis?
Or you’re a new PC builder, and choosing the correct RAM means you will have to decide on the capacity, type, price, timing specifications, and profile height. I’m here to help you navigate the not-so-difficult path to finding the perfect RAM modules for your PC.
What type of RAM do I need (DDR2, DDR3, or DDR4)?
How much RAM do I need?
What is the maximum supported RAM frequency by my motherboard?
What is the maximum RAM capacity supported by my motherboard?
How much clearance is available for heatsinks on the RAM in my Casing?
The most accepted and easy method in choosing the appropriate RAM for your computer is to look inside your motherboard’s manufacturer’s manual. This user manual lists all of the specifications of memory that it can support.
If you don’t have this manual, see the motherboard manufacturer’s website for this information. Typically, most of the vendors have a list called Qualified Vendor List (QVL) of RAM modules with timings, frequencies, and model numbers to exactly know what RAM sticks to search for your computer.
For laptops, manufacturers offer a user manual or service manual to the end-user. The user manual lists specifications for the replacement of all parts on the laptop. Again, also see the manufacturer’s website if you do not have this information.
Adding RAM to a PC is easily one of the best ways to increase your system’s performance. RAM can increase speed, productivity and boost your PC, old or new.
However, memory compatibility issues due to two or more different RAM sticks can cause various issues like BSOD, instability, etc. So, in most use cases, I suggest you buy a new dual-channel DDRx kit, having 2 sticks of RAM that are guaranteed to be identical.
The older RAM sticks can be discarded, since, even two slow sticks will degrade the newer faster RAM sticks’ performance, assuming you have 4 RAM slots to use both kits at the same time. (Kit meaning 2 sticks of identical RAM modules)
You can also go the hard way and find a module (or two) that matches your current RAM sticks’ timings, capacity, clock-speed sufficiently closely. Mismatching different timings and specifications will firstly result in performance degradation to the slowest RAM stick and can cause instability issues.
The other downside of upgrading older PC’s RAM is the cost. If you wanted to upgrade to 8GB more RAM, you will pay around $179 for DDR2. You would only pay around $27 for DDR3. If you were upgrading to DDR4, it would cost about $60.
As you can see, there is a steep price difference between older RAM and DDR3 and DDR4. If your system is running well otherwise and you don’t want to invest in all new components, go get cheaper DDR3 or DDR4, it might be a less expensive choice overall.
So, even though a RAM upgrade feels small, the costs of the older generation are usually very inflated due to supply shortages. After a product reaches EOL, the only products in circulation are either remaining supply or refurbished parts from the Used PC market.
Please take this into consideration, if your PC only supports 2 generations older DDR memory than the current market technology. I would not recommend you a RAM upgrade of a DDR1 or DDR2 memory even for small prices, since, there is no guarantee of a working fresh module.
One thing to remember when you install the RAM sticks is that when you install more than 2 RAM sticks, you’ll need to know which order to insert each RAM stick. This is part of the compatibility factor in that if you install them in the wrong order, they won’t function optimally.
The specific slots that will need to be filled in sequential order, for more than 2 sticks of RAM is usually properly depicted in your motherboard’s user manual (and sometimes even on the motherboard itself).
Basically, this is all you should need to find which RAM modules available are compatible with your computer and install them correctly on your PC. However, if you want to know more about the technicalities of RAM modules, and make an even smarter decision, read on further below.
Today, many machines still use DDR3, which has been standard in PCs since 2007 and is still widely sold. RAM form factors differ with each generation.
Each generation change such as “DDR3 to DDR4“, changes its form factor so it is not possible to accidentally insert the incorrect RAM into the slot.
One important reason for this is that electronic specifications change with each generation, such as DDR4’s lower voltages compared to DDR3’s. The voltage variations could cause serious damage to the RAM or other peripherals.
There are several ways to identify the differences between DDR3 and DDR4. The easiest of them is the sticker that is on the RAM itself. If there is a sticker on the RAM, it should provide information about your installed type.
If the sticker is not present or does not provide this information and you cannot install the programs mentioned above. Look at the voltage of the RAM using your motherboard BIOS. The table below shows the voltage comparison of all RAM form factors from SDRAM to the cutting-edge new DDR5.
DDR SDRAM StandardInternal Rate(MHz)Bus Clock(MHz)Release YearData Rate(MT/s)Transfer Rate(MB/s)Voltage(V)
There are quite a few third party apps easily available on the web for displaying the component specifications of your computer. For example, AIDA64/ CPUZ / HWinfo all work fine for checking what RAM does your PC has currently, and more. Most motherboard BIOS also shows limited information on this.
By using Speccy, we can see the memory type as DDR3. We can see there is a total of 16GB of Dual-Channel RAM.
The speed or frequency of the RAM is 797.8MHz. Since this computer uses Dual-Channel RAM, the speed is doubled, making the total speed around 1600MHz.
We can also see how many memory slots are available on the motherboard and your memory usage.
The small form factor RAM or SO-DIMM (Small Outline – Dual In-Line Memory Module) RAM is the one used in laptops. The difference in SO-DIMM laptop RAM is its physical size. SO-DIMM is much smaller at 2 ½ to 3 inches in length.
Desktop RAM or DIMM (Dual Inline Memory Module) DDR3 and DDR4 are both approximately 5 ¼ inches. The other difference is that Laptop DDR4 (SO-DIMM) has 260 pins where Desktop DDR4 (DIMMs) has 288 pins.
Laptop DDR3 (SO-DIMM) has 204 pins whereas the desktop DDR3 has 240 pins. Other variations of SO-DIMM and DDR can be seen in the chart below.
SDR Memory TypeDIMM 168 pinsSO-DIMM 100/144 pins
DDR Memory TypeDIMM 184 pinsSO-DIMM 200 pin
DDR2 Memory TypeDIMM 240 pinsSO-DIMM 200 pin
DDR3 Memory TypeDIMM 240 pinsSO-DIMM 204 pin
DDR4 Memory TypeDIMM 288 pinsSO-DIMM 260 pin
Now we are going to start getting a little bit more technical. Each RAM module has two memory timing specifications that you want to look for. One spec is the frequency or the number of times something happens over a set period.
This is the bus speed of a DDR RAM module. You usually see this depicted as 2133 MHz, 2666MHz, 3000MHz, etc. in dual channel DDR3, DDR4 modules’ descriptions.
The second spec you want to look at is latency, which is how long it takes to catch up. These two specifications are important if you are looking to get the most out of your RAM purchase.
In the image above, you will see a series of numbers (CL 11-11-1-28) that define the latency of your RAM module. The series of numbers start with CAS (Column Access Strobe) Latency or CL usually.
CAS is the time that it takes for your RAM to start responding to a request. This number depends on the number of clock cycles which is the frequency of 1600 MHz for this example.
The second number contains the tRCD (the Row to Column Delay). These numbers indicate the time it takes to search each row to find the column of the data it is searching for and stored.
The third number is the tRP (the Row Precharge). The Row Precharge defines the necessary time it takes for the RAM to open a new row.
The fourth and final number is tRAS (the Row Active Time). The Row Active Time is the minimum number of clock cycles that a row must stay open to ensure that information is read or written correctly.
This number should be greater or equal to the total of all other numbers listed above (CAS + tRCD + tRP = tRAS).
Knowing all the above, aim for the ideal combination of:
lowest timings, especially the CL (first number of the sequence)
highest frequency (rated stock speed of the module)
compatiblity with your motherboard (Qualified Vendor List of each motherboard or QVL)
If your system doesn’t have enough memory, it will attempt to use your hard disk drive to help reduce the workload. This process utilizes Windows virtual memory (pagefile) or paging. Every time you open applications that the RAM on your machine can’t handle, it transfers the program to the pagefile.
The bad thing about paging is that it can overwork the hard drive. When your system doesn’t have enough RAM, your hard drive will be working overtime trying to keep up with all of the processes.
Not only is this process much slower than a normal RAM process, but it can also cause memory allocation errors and hardware failures due to the increased read, write, and re-write on the hard disk drive.
However, in our experience, 8GB is the minimum, and we recommend a perfect 16GB of RAM for gaming/media consumption/streaming, and 32GB for video editing, content creation and content manipulation.
4GB of RAM barely even makes it for basic browsing in the Windows environment, circa 2023. Linux is different and could work with this much RAM, not smoothly but better than Windows.
Another thing to consider is your processor’s architecture. If you are using a 32bit (x86) OS, it will not utilize more than 4GB of RAM. However, if you have a 64bit Operating System (x64), you can utilize much more depending on your maximum motherboard specifications.
I should also mention that some CPU chip makers, such as Intel, limit the RAM frequencies based on the type of processor.
With so many manufactures of RAM out there, you may be wondering which one you should purchase. The rule of thumb is always to choose a well-known, trusted supplier for any PC component.
Many Memory vendors exist and provide excellent quality products. A lot has to do with personal preference, availability, aesthetic value, price, and warranty offers.
Some very prominent RAM vendors are Crucial, Corsair, G.Skill, Kingston, Transcend, ADATA, Apacer, etc. It is very important to do your homework, utilize all of the information in this guide to make a sound decision on a quality product that will provide you with the speed and performance you require.
My Router is Not Connecting to the Internet: 10 Simple Fixes Make sure that the wire plugged into the router has an active internet connection
Routers often don’t fail and stop connecting to the internet, if they are extremely old or if they are running old firmware. It can malfunction.
A router can also malfunction if it overheats. That is why it is recommended that you turn your router off once in a while.
You can get more performance from your router if you configure it properly, and we will help you with this task.
INSTALL BY CLICKING THE DOWNLOAD FILE
To fix Windows PC system issues, you will need a dedicated tool
Fortect is a tool that does not simply cleans up your PC, but has a repository with several millions of Windows System files stored in their initial version. When your PC encounters a problem, Fortect will fix it for you, by replacing bad files with fresh versions. To fix your current PC issue, here are the steps you need to take:
Download Fortect and install it on your PC.
Start the tool’s scanning process to look for corrupt files that are the source of your problem
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readers this month.
It can be frustrating to find out that your internet connection has stopped working or is having a problem connecting to the router.
This is often too common in every household. It could be a problem on your Internet Service Provider’s end, a small outage, or your router could be damaged.
But there is a fix for every problem, and we’ll go over them briefly and help you restore your internet connection in no time!Most common situations in which this issue occurs
Router not connecting to the internet after reset: If you’ve pressed the reset button on your router, you have reset the router to its default settings. This means that you have erased all the configurations and you have to re-set it up to connect to the internet.
The router won’t connect to the internet after the power outage: Unplug the router from the power outlet, and plug it back in after a few seconds. Once it turns on, try visiting any website and see if your router is working properly now.
Unable to use the internet with the current settings: Open the task manager and check if any program is consuming extremely high bandwidth in the network tab. If that is the case, then you should terminate it and scan your computer for viruses.What are some of the most commonly affected platforms?
Spectrum internet not connecting with the router: It could be due to a glitch in the router that can be fixed by restarting it.
Xfinity Internet not working with my router: If you are an Xfinity user and your router is unable to connect to your router, restart the router and check if the Ethernet cable is properly attached. If nothing helps, you should immediately call your ISP.Does this issue appear on multiple devices?
The answer is yes, as routers are no different from each other and they are all the same. But, it can be fixed as most of the time it is due to a small glitch since they run 24/7 nonstop.
Netgear and Netgear Nighthawk routers couldn’t connect to the internet: It could be due to outdated firmware, overheating, misconfigured settings, or an internet outage. To fix this, first, reboot your router, then confirm that the settings are properly configured.
Asus routers couldn’t connect to the internet: If your Asus router couldn’t connect to the internet, it could be for the same reasons as a Netgear router, such as outdated firmware installed, overheating, etc.
TP-Link router not connecting to the internet: If your TP-Link router has trouble connecting, follow the troubleshooting steps mentioned below to fix the issue.
Talktalk router not connecting to the internet: Restart your Wi-Fi router. If this didn’t help, connect your computer to the router using the Ethernet cable and check if it works now.What can I do if my router won’t connect to the internet? 1. Check to see if your router’s internet connection is active
The first step is to confirm if all the LED indicator lights are glowing green.
If any of the LED indicator lights are glowing red or orange, restart your router.
To restart, turn off your Wi-Fi router by unplugging it and wait 20–30 seconds.
Now, plug it back in and allow 15–30 seconds for the router to power back on and detect the internet connection.2. Try connecting with an Ethernet cable
Try connecting the Ethernet cable and confirm if the internet is working.
Connect one end of the Ethernet cable to your computer and the other end to your router.
Confirm now if you can access the internet connection using the Ethernet cable.
Mostly, the issue could be with the Wi-Fi, but the LAN can be functional. Hence, by connecting your computer with the Ethernet cable, you can confirm if it is only your Wi-Fi that isn’t working, or the router itself.
If this still didn’t help, you should try troubleshooting the internet connection.3. Troubleshoot the Internet connection 4. Delete DNS Cache
Press the Start button and search for the Command Prompt.
Type ipconfig/flushdns and press the enter key.5. Check your computer for viruses and malware
Use the Windows in-built antivirus software, Windows Defender, to scan your computer for any viruses or malware. If your computer is infected with a virus or malware, it could eat up a lot of bandwidth or block the internet connection completely.
Alternatively, you can also install a standalone and superior antivirus program such as ESET Internet Security.6. Use other devices
When your PC fails to connect to the internet and your router doesn’t show any problem with the internet connection, connect to the internet using your mobile phone, or another PC or computer.
If your device connects to the internet but your main PC couldn’t, the problem could be with your PC.7. DIsable your antivirus software
And during this process, the antivirus can sometimes interrupt the internet connection due to misconfiguration.
We recommend you reset the settings to default or disable the antivirus completely and check if your PC can connect to the internet now.8. Reset the router’s settings
Most routers have a dedicated reset button. Press the button for 30 seconds.
Your router will flash all the indicator lights, indicating that it has been factory reset.
A factory reset removes all the configurations, so set up your router again from scratch.
Now, connect your computer to your router using Wi-Fi or Ethernet and confirm if you can access the internet.
If this step didn’t solve the issue yet, we have one more fix that should fix it.9. Reset the network settings on Windows
If you tried all the above solutions and yet the router won’t connect to the internet, you should contact your ISP and let them know you are having trouble accessing the internet.
Maybe you could be facing some downtime, or something might have gone wrong. When you report, you raise an issue, and the team will work on diagnosing and fixing it.How can I fix my new router if it’s not connecting to the internet? 1. Check if your internet connection is working
If you already have an internet connection at your home and have decided to upgrade your router, you should first confirm if the internet connection is working on the previous router before you install the new one.
There is a possibility that the new router won’t connect easily without proper configuration. It is best to confirm if the internet connection is working on your old router before you fiddle with your PC or your new router’s settings, complicating the process even further.2. Turn on your router
Connect the LAN and power cable to your router.
Press the power on/off button on your router.
Allow a few moments for it to boot.
Once you turn on your router, the indicator lights will blink a few times and also change colors while you are setting them up. Also, During the setup process, the indicator lights will blink multiple times.
After 1-2 minutes, the internet connection light should light up in green, suggesting the router is recognizing the internet connection and it is ready to be used. If it shows orange, it means the router recognizes the internet connection but has trouble connecting to it. If the color is red, it means your router is failing to connect to the internet or the internet is not working.
But, if your router is failing to connect to the internet, it can be because it is not configured properly.3. Configure your network 4. Configure Wi-Fi
Now that you have set your router up, you will need to set up your Wi-Fi now.
Download the router manufacturer’s app on your smartphone and log in to your router.
Create a password for your 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz networks.
Wherever possible, make use of auto-configuration tools.
Enable firewalls and web filtering. Use access controls to safeguard yourself against malicious traffic.
Once you have completed the setup process, you can now connect your devices to the router.
Your router can at times stop working. It could be due to various reasons such as downtime, your router malfunctioning, and more.
You can fix the issue by following the above steps, if it doesn’t help, you should immediately call your ISP for help.
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The 2010s have seen some fantastic gadgets. Out of them all, my favorite gadget of the decade is none other than an iPhone 4!! Many fellow tech aficionados might not agree with my choice, but then that’s that.
If you had asked me impromptu, my answer would have been an iPad Pro or the Apple Watch. However, as I was penning this down, I gave it some thought. And to our mutual surprise, this humble device first unveiled on June 7, 2010.Why Apple iPhone 4? Passion is Greater Than Any Logic
Of course, this is a biased decision. More than technical or logical reasoning, all I have to defend my choice is my passion.
It all goes back to the start of the decade when I was facing one of the most vital questions of my life? Where do I want to see myself in 10 years? Which career path should I opt for? Can I carve a living out of my geekiness?
It was during this time that I was falling head over heels in love with Steve Jobs and Apple, while they unknowingly tested my loyalty towards them.The Seed of My Passion for All Things Apple was Sown with an iPhone 4
As an Apple fan, there were some downsides to living in India in the early 2010s. Especially with regards to product availability, affordability, or services. Let’s put it this way; the country wasn’t a priority for Apple as of then.
Since Android devices were gaining popularity, I started tilting towards them. Although being a true-blue nerd for tech, gadgets, gaming, and the Internet, I regularly came across Steve Jobs’ ideas, visions, and endeavours.
My fascination with devices, both Android and iOS, was growing in equal proportions. And thanks to a past stint, I got to interact with the original iPad. Here, my interest scale began to incline towards Apple.
So much so that I knocked on doors of every Indian telecom to enquire about the new iPhone 4. I so passionately wanted to have that device in my hand and did everything in my power to own one.Thank You iPhone 4 For Making Me an iGeek
Even though I did not have an iPhone 4 in my hand, I started learning and writing about it on Web 2.0 properties like chúng tôi by late 2010. And soon, Jignesh became my partner in crime.
We fused our passions to start chúng tôi in early 2011. Do note that we still did not have an iPhone 4, and the ‘4’ in the website name was an ode to our passion for the device.
It was almost 11 months later on May 27, 2011, that the iPhone 4 finally launched in India. And on October 24, 2011, I bought my very first Apple device. And as they say, the rest is history.
Since then we have promoted our blog to iGeeksBlog (October 3, 2012) and our smartphones to iPhone 11 Pro. Today, my team and I are an avid addict of the Apple ecosystem and own a bunch of Apple devices to play up to our heart’s content.iPhone 4 is Indeed My Favorite Gadget of the Decade
I don’t know when and where it started or what inspired me. All I know is that suddenly I was an iPhone person and will remain for the foreseeable future.
Even when I didn’t have one, I wished to own one someday. I wanted to learn, read, research, and write about an iPhone, though I didn’t have access to one.
Strange, aren’t we geeks quite a hands-on person? How was I falling in love with a device that I have never touched or felt? Well, this is probably what you call destiny. After all, I wasn’t meant to be just a geek; I was meant to be an iGeek.
Whether as an ode to where I am today or as thanks for a beautiful decade filled with innumerable geeky joys, iPhone 4 is undoubtedly and unquestionably my favorite device of the decade. This is an honest attempt to commemorate my Love, Passion, Adoration, and Gratitude towards iPhone 4.
I hope you like it as well. Do share your favorite gadgets of the decade with us. We would love to hear about your choices. As the iPhone 4 and my blogging career are about to complete a decade, here’s to many many more decades together.
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The founder of iGeeksBlog, Dhvanesh, is an Apple aficionado, who cannot stand even a slight innuendo about Apple products. He dons the cap of editor-in-chief to make sure that articles match the quality standard before they are published.
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