You are reading the article Why You Should Always Safely Remove Your Usb Devices. Especially Usb Storage Devices. updated in December 2023 on the website Kientrucdochoi.com. We hope that the information we have shared is helpful to you. If you find the content interesting and meaningful, please share it with your friends and continue to follow and support us for the latest updates. Suggested January 2024 Why You Should Always Safely Remove Your Usb Devices. Especially Usb Storage Devices.
This is one of those topics that always divides a room and it’s easy to understand why. Safely removing a USB device from your computer, especially flash drives is painfully slow and in the scheme of things seems pretty pointless. Ninety percent of the time or more, you will get away with removing your device without any consequences, the other times, well, you might be in for a world of heartache. This guide aims to shed some light on why you may want to consider safely removing your USB devices in the future. At least the storage devices.
How to Download Videos From Facebook Without Programs or Apps.
USB connections and devices have been around since the mid-1990’s and apart from the annoying connection “Two ways to Plugin, takes three tries” they are invaluable. With so many different devices coming with a USB connection, it’s hard to know which ones you should safely remove and which ones you don’t really need too. Below are a few reasons why safely removing a USB device is a good habit to get into.
Why You Should Safely Remove USB Devices.So we have established how annoying it is to safely remove a USB device, now we need to establish why you should spend the extra time doing so.
If this doesn’t convince you to safely remove your USB device, then there is no convincing you. The number one reason you should safely remove your USB device is to protect the data on it from being lost or corrupted. As we mentioned earlier, 9 times out of 10 you can remove a device without any issue, however, this does come with risks. You never know when your data will be corrupted or lost. For other devices that do not contain data such as headphones webcams and keyboards, you can continue to remove them without any worries about them being damaged. Just double check the manufacturer’s suggestions when you first open your device to make sure.
USB flash drives and external hard drives connected via USB need power use a small amount of power and if they are suddenly disconnected can actually physically damage the device. Again there goes all your data.
How to Safely Remove USB Devices.As annoying and slow as it is, safely removing a USB device doesn’t actually take that much time. Three seconds should do it on average. If you’ve never safely removed a USB device before you can follow the steps below.
If you have more than one USB device connected you will need to choose the one you wish to disconnect.
When the device or the icon disappears from the taskbar, you can physically remove your device from the computer.
The worst part of this process is breaking any old habits you may have. Just remember you have spent ages gathering the data on your device, so why risk losing it all because you didn’t want to spend a few more seconds removing your device safely. Perhaps in future Windows will create an official keyboard shortcut that can be used to safely remove a USB device.
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How To Remove Removable Storage Devices Folder From Desktop
Sometimes we see folders that are created on their own on our PC. They might be created by the programs we install or the tools we use. There is no need to panic unless they are created by the malware. There is a Removable Storage Device folder that is appearing suddenly on the desktop of some users. It does not harm but such a folder on a desktop is not a usual thing. You might have created a shortcut for the drive but not a removable storage devices folder. In this guide, we show you different ways to remove the removable storage devices folder from the desktop.
Why is there a Removable Storage Device folder on my desktop?It appears suddenly on the desktop after you have used a removable storage device on your Windows PC. It mostly appears when you have used the files on the removable storage device on your PC and make changes to them without copying them onto your PC. For example, if you have used photos on a removable storage device and edited them on your PC without copying them, you may see the removable storage device folder on your desktop.
How to remove Removable Storage Devices folder from desktop
If a folder named Removable Storage Devices appears on your desktop and you are wondering how to get rid of it, the following fixes can help you remove it. Any of the below methods can help you fix it.
Use the Refresh option on desktop
Restart your PC
Manually delete the folder
Use a File Deleter software
Run a malware scan
Let’s get into the details of each method and delete the Removable Storage Devices folder from Desktop.
1] Use the Refresh option on desktopRead: Desktop and Taskbar keep refreshing constantly in Windows 11/10
2] Restart your PCRestarting a device is the most generic fix when we face any issue with it. It works even when you see a removable devices folder on the desktop of your PC. Just close all the programs, eject the removable device (if any), and restart your PC. After the restart check if the folder is gone or not.
Read: Shutdown or Restart Windows without using the mouse cursor
3] Manually delete the folderIf refreshing your desktop or restarting your PC does not work, try to delete the folder manually. You can select the folder and press Delete on the keyboard or use the Shift + Delete buttons to delete it permanently and press Enter to confirm. You can also use the context menu to delete it.
Read: Delete undeletable & locked files, and folders in Windows 11/10
4] Use a File Deleter softwareIf the Removable Storage Devices folder is still there after trying to manually delete it, you should use a third-party file deleter software to delete it. You can use programs like ForceDelete, ThisisMyFile, Wise Force Delete, or any program of your choice.
5] Run a malware scanThere are some chances that the removable storage devices folder has been created by the malware. We need to eliminate the possibility of it. To do so, you need to run Windows Defender as well as a free malware scan or antivirus program to find and delete such traces. If it is really created by malware, you will see it disappear now.
Read: Managing Files and Folders in Windows 11/10 – Tips & Tricks
These are the different ways using which you can remove the removable storage devices folder from the desktop.
How do I turn off removable storage?You can turn off removable storage devices on your PC using the Registry Editor, disable USB ports from the Device Manager, disable using Command-line tools, using a third-party program, or using Microsoft Fix It. You can use any of them and turn off removable storage.
Why do I have a removable storage devices folder on my desktop?There are five different ways to remove the Removable Storage Devices folder from your desktop. For example, you can simply press the F5 button to refresh your computer and remove the corresponding folder immediately. However, if it doesn’t work, you can restart your computer, or delete the folder manually.
Read: Automatically create shortcuts to USB Removable Media on Desktop.
Why You Should Always Use The Free Applecare Repair Service
Repairing the Primary Problem… and Fixing Other Issues Too
The obvious benefit for using the free repair service is the direct issue gets resolved. In this case, the iPhone 5 sleep/wake button was replaced. But that’s not always where the repairs end. Because Apple runs thorough diagnostic tests on the device before sending it back to you, they may discover other issues, and, because their customer service is quite generous, they often repair the other issues while they have the device, at no cost to you.
That brings me back to my own iPhone 5 which was recently sent in, and not only did Apple repair the malfunctioning Lock / Power button, but also the camera (regular readers may recall that the camera was mysteriously loose and sometimes not working, an issue some other users reported), and Apple even gave the iPhone a brand new battery – which as far as I knew, had no issues at all – but the new battery does last a significantly longer amount of time. Is that awesome or what?
Here’s the AppleCare Service Summary that was returned with my iPhone showing what was replaced:
The top item listed is the sleep/wake/lock button which the iPhone was originally sent in for, next on the list is the battery, and last is the new camera. All repaired by Apple on an out of warranty iPhone, for free.
How Long Do Apple Repairs Take?If you’re located near an Apple Store, sometimes they can repair the device that day, sometimes it’ll take a few days, and sometimes they just swap you out with another device onsite immediately. What happens really depends on a variety of things, ranging from the issue being repaired, the rep you work with, and the stores availability of replacement components.
Visiting an Apple Store is inconvenient for me, thus I went for the mail-in route. After making a repair request through the Apple site, Apple sent a box through FedEx and it arrived the next day, and I sent the phone off immediately. It went to Apple’s primary repair center in Elk Grove, California, and was returned to me within the same week, in total it was gone about 4 full business days. For a mail-in repair service, that’s quite fast, and certainly much faster than most other repair services I’ve worked with. Keep in mind this is for out-of-warranty devices. If your iPhone is still under warranty, they’ll usually just send you a new iPhone right away, and the box sent with it is used to return your malfunctioning device with – meaning you’re never without a phone.
What You Should Do Before Sending the iPhone in for RepairThe big thing to remember when sending an iPhone (or any item) for repair is to back up all your data first. For the iPhone, that means backing it up to a computer with iTunes, or to iCloud, or better yet – both. This lets you quickly restore your stuff when you get the phone back, without missing a beat.
Also, don’t forget to turn off Find My iPhone (otherwise the iPhone could be stuck on iCloud Activation Lock), remove any cases from the iPhone, and Apple prefers it if you reset the iPhone to factory default settings before sending it in too. Assuming you talk to an Apple rep on the phone or through online chat, they’ll walk you through all these processes as well.
Obviously not every iPhone or device sent in to Apple will receive additional repairs for free, but there’s certainly a chance something else will be found and they’ll fix that as well. So if your iPhone is eligible under the Sleep / Lock button replacement program (or any other free repair service for that matter), why not send yours and see what happens? At the very least, your power button will work again.
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Universal Audio Volt 2 Usb
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Founded in 1958 by audio engineer Bill Putnam, Sr., Universal Audio is well-known in the pro audio world for manufacturing top-shelf outboard gear (preamps, compressors, and the like) and for the best-in-class audio converters found in its Apollo line of interfaces. In late 2023, the company announced its new Volt series, which aims to deliver UA’s sought-after analog sound and high-quality conversion in its most affordable and travel-friendly audio interfaces. I recently spent some time on the road recording and traveling with the Universal Audio Volt 2, a 2-input/2-output model that concentrates on providing the cleanest signal in a compact form factor. Here are my thoughts on the interface’s sound, design, and workflow to assess how it stacks up against similar USB interfaces in its price range.
The Universal Audio Volt 2’s designThe Volt series runs the gamut in size and price, from the 1-input/2-output Volt 1 at $139 to the 4-input/4-output Volt 476P at $469. While each of the Volt interfaces is bus-powered via USB-C and includes a unique “vintage” tonal option—more on that later—a few of the models also include a built-in FET compressor styled after the company’s 1176LN Compressor, a relatively loud and bright-sounding compressor capable of producing responsive, transparent signal leveling but costing several thousand dollars. The Universal Audio Volt 2‘s distinguishing feature, however, is its panache and portability: its clean rectangular chassis measures roughly 7 x 5 x 2 inches, it weighs just 1.4 pounds, and it requires no wall wart thanks to its USB-C bus-powered design.
From a design standpoint, the Volt 2 significantly improves on Universal Audio’s last portable offering, the 6 x 6 x 3-inch, 2.4-pound Apollo Twin X, which requires wall power. The Volt 2’s control panel is also organized in a straightforward and easy-to-use manner, with most of the gain controls and monitoring options clearly labeled and placed alongside the interface’s two combo XLR/¼-inch inputs, which accept mic, instrument, and line level signals. A few backlit buttons offer access to 48-volt phantom power, instrument signal selection, and the Volt’s distinctive “vintage” mode, which engages solid-state electronics to add soft clipping and warm saturation to the input signals in the style of the Universal Audio Solo 610 Tube Preamp.
Like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, PreSonus AudioBox GO (which I reviewed in 2023), and other similarly-sized 2-in/2-out USB interfaces, the Volt 2 features a single 48-volt phantom power toggle that sends voltage to both inputs simultaneously. This won’t pose a problem for most users, but this limitation is something to keep in mind if you’re using vintage ribbon mics or other equipment that may be damaged by phantom power. On the conversion side, the Volt 2 features an impressive max audio conversion rate of 24-bit/192kHz, matching that of Universal Audio’s flagship Apollo line of interfaces and allowing users to record extremely high-fidelity audio with a very small footprint.
One significant design limitation of the Volt 2 is its lack of onboard DSP processing, which is required to run Universal Audio’s vast library of over 200 plugins. While none of the interfaces in the Volt series can run Universal Audio’s plugins, this speaks to a larger caveat in the company’s ecosystem; to run most UAD plugins, you need an Apollo-series interface or an external UAD accelerator. This is somewhat remedied yet further convoluted by the recent introduction of UAD Spark. This new subscription service offers access to around 20 of the company’s plugins without an Apollo interface or other external processors. Long story short: you’ll save a lot of money opting for a Volt-series interface over an Apollo, but you won’t be able to use it to run most of Universal Audio’s plugins.
Plug-n-play, as they say. Julian Vittorio
Getting started with the Universal Audio Volt 2Setting up the UA Volt 2 for recording is a breeze thanks to its bus-powered design. To get started, I removed the interface from its packaging, unpacked the included USB-C cable, and connected the Volt 2 to a USB port on my MacBook Pro. The Volt 2 immediately powered on and appeared as an available device for audio input and output in Logic Pro, my preferred digital audio workstation. If you’re running the Volt 2 into an older USB hub or want to conserve battery on your device, an included 5VDC-to-USB connector allows you to power the interface with your own USB-to-wall power adapter.
I primarily tested the Volt 2 while traveling, which required that I set it up and pack it away in several different hotel rooms with workspaces of varying sizes. Next to a 13-inch laptop, the Volt 2 is a perfectly-sized interface for assembling a lean and mean mobile recording rig, and because it doesn’t require wall power, it’s easy to set up pretty much anywhere. While on the road, I only had an electric guitar and bass at my disposal for recording, both of which I connected directly to one of the Volt 2’s 1/4-inch instrument inputs while monitoring through the interface’s headphone output using a pair of KRK KNS 8400 over-ear headphones. I also used the Volt 2’s direct monitoring feature, which offers latency-free monitoring of the input signals via a front panel switch to ensure a natural and comfortable performance experience.
Suppose you’re setting up the Volt 2 as part of a larger studio setup. In that case, the interface features left and right TRS outputs on its rear panel for connecting to studio monitors and two MIDI ports for connecting older synths and other MIDI-compatible devices. Some smaller two-preamp interfaces like the Apollo Twin include ADAT to allow users to expand their rigs with additional inputs and outputs. While I would have liked to see this feature included in the Volt instead of the older and less commonly used MIDI connectors, it would likely mean a significant increase in cost.
The Universal Audio Volt 2’s soundThe UA Volt line promises clear high-resolution audio conversion that follows in the footsteps of the company’s industry-standard Apollo line, and the Volt 2 stacks up very well upon comparison. Compared to audio recorded with similar two-input interfaces, the Volt 2 sounds distinctly “open” in its high-frequency range with a relatively detailed midrange that doesn’t suffer from much of the obscure and “muddy” character that is often a hallmark of its price range. In these respects, the converters in the Volt 2 sound remarkably close to those in the Apollo, though I found the low mids in the Apollo converters to be slightly more nuanced and focused. While these differences are relatively minor, this effect can sometimes compound when multitracking and may create extra mixing work on the back end.
The Volt 2’s unique “vintage” feature also adds another level of creative flexibility to the equation, and it was great to have this option while traveling with limited gear. With the mode engaged, the Volt’s inputs sound distinctly analog and old-school, replacing its clean and pristine default sound with warm, round, saturated tone. The vintage mode also engages a soft clipper to flatten peaks in the input signal in a behavior similar to analog tubes, lending a character that’s particularly great for early rock and Motown-esque bass and guitar tones. While it’s probably not a one-size-fits-all sound, the vintage mode is killer for adding an extra level of character and “glue” to minimalist demo recordings and overdubs.
A “studio” in your messenger bag. Julian Vittorio
So, who should buy the Universal Audio Volt 2?The Volt 2 features some of the clearest and most musical-sounding converters I’ve tested in its price range. If you’re in the market for a simple two-input travel interface, you’d be hard-pressed to do better. Its vintage preamp option is also incredibly versatile. It adds a distinctly pleasing “pre-mixed” analog quality to input sources, saving time on mixing and bouncing, particularly when recording demos or overdubs. I wish that the Volt 2 included ADAT or S/PDIF for adding additional inputs instead of MIDI—the tiny, forward-facing design of the Volt 2 seems at odds with everything that old and bulky MIDI gear stands for—and, unfortunately, the interface can’t run UAD plugins. Still, if you can look past these design limitations, the Universal Audio Volt 2 is an incredibly flexible and relatively affordable travel interface with the potential to deliver studio-quality recordings on the go.
Related: Best electric guitars under $500
How To Airdrop Files Between Your Apple Devices
AirDrop is a wireless file transfer feature that allows you to rapidly share files between Apple devices, such as a Mac and iPhone, iPhone and iPad, etc. You can send files between your devices or with other Apple users’ devices. Once you know how to set up and use AirDrop to transfer files, you’ll never go back to other slower solutions!
How Does AirDrop Work?Apple AirDrop uses Bluetooth and Wi-Fi to create a peer-to-peer connection between devices, allowing you to share files quickly and easily without needing a network connection.
Once the devices are within range, select the file you want to share and choose the AirDrop option from the share menu for a specific file.
The Share Menu Button in iOS and iPadOS
This will automatically search for nearby devices compatible with AirDrop and display them in a list.
Select the recipient from the list, and the file will be sent wirelessly to their device. The recipient will receive a notification that they have received a file and can choose to accept or decline the transfer. The file will be saved to their device if they accept the transfer.
Good to know: if you’re an Android user and looking for something like AirDrop, learn how to share files and apps on Android with Nearby Share.
The Advantages of Using AirDrop
With AirDrop, it’s easy to share files between compatible Apple devices without an Internet connection or additional software.
AirDrop uses Bluetooth and Wi-Fi to create a peer-to-peer connection between devices, allowing (much) faster file transfer speeds than other methods.
Encryption is used to protect the privacy of your files during the transfer process.
AirDrop supports a wide range of file types.
AirDrop is available on all Apple devices that support Bluetooth LE (Low Energy) technology, which is virtually all of them released in recent years.
Once you’ve used AirDrop, it’s almost certain to become your go-to file-sharing choice between your Apple gadgets, but before you can start flinging those files through the air, you’ll need to ensure that AirDrop is enabled.
Good to know: Bluetooth technology is an amazing, power-efficient way to send and receive data. If you’re not totally familier with it, it’s worth learning about all the ways Bluetooth can be used.
Enabling AirDrop in macOSAirDrop should be enabled by default on your Mac, but you may need to check its settings and make sure it’s ready to use.
To enable AirDrop on a Mac, follow these steps:
From the Go menu, select “AirDrop.” This will open a new window showing nearby devices that are compatible with AirDrop.
Once AirDrop is enabled, you will see a list of nearby devices that are compatible with AirDrop. You can drag and drop files onto a device in the list to share them wirelessly.
If you just want to make sure you can receive files via AirDrop, enable it from the Control Center on your Mac by following these steps:
From the AirDrop menu, make sure “AirDrop” is toggled on. then select either “Contacts Only” or “Everyone” to enable AirDrop.
Good to know: if you can’t seem to get AirDrop working on your Mac or another supported device, you can check our AirDrop troubleshooting guide for solutions.
Enabling AirDrop in iOS and iPadOSNow that you know how to enable AirDrop on macOS, let’s learn how to enable AirDrop on an iOS or iPadOS device:
Open Control Center on your device by swiping down from the top-right corner of the screen (on an iPhone without a home button) or swiping up from the bottom of the screen (on an iPhone with a home button or an iPad).
From the Control Center, tap on the AirDrop icon. (It looks like a group of circles with a triangle shape missing at the bottom.)
From the AirDrop menu, select either “Contacts Only” or “Everyone” to enable AirDrop. In some regions, you’ll see “Everyone for 10 Minutes” instead.
To enable AirDrop from the Settings app on an iOS or iPadOS device, follow these steps:
Open the Settings app on your device.
From the main Settings menu, select “General.”
Select “AirDrop.”
From the AirDrop menu, select either “Contacts Only” or “Everyone” to enable AirDrop. In some regions, you’ll see “Everyone for 10 Minutes” instead.
Once AirDrop is enabled, use it to share files with nearby devices, as described above. To disable AirDrop, go back to the AirDrop menu in the Settings app and select the “Receiving Off” AirDrop option.
How to AirDrop Files Between MacsNow that AirDrop is ready to go on all your devices, let’s look at how to send files. First, we are AirDropping a file between two Macs:
Make sure that both Macs are within range of each other and have Bluetooth and Wi-Fi enabled.
From the Go menu, select “AirDrop.” This will open a new window showing nearby devices that are compatible with AirDrop.
In the AirDrop window, you will see a list of nearby devices that are compatible with AirDrop. Drag and drop the files that you want to share onto the device you want to send them to.
The recipient will receive a notification that they have received a file and can choose to accept or decline the transfer. The file will be saved to their device if they accept the transfer.
Remember, AirDrop is only available on Macs running macOS Lion or later. If you’re not running the latest update, learn how you can improve your Mac experience with macOS Ventura.
How to AirDrop Files Between iOS and iPadOS DevicesIt’s also possible to AirDrop files between Apple’s mobile devices. See the complete steps below:
Make sure that both devices are within range of each other and have Bluetooth and Wi-Fi enabled.
On the device that will be sending the files, locate the files that you want to share ,and tap on the share button. (It looks like a square with an arrow pointing up.)
From the Share menu, tap on the “AirDrop” option. This will search for nearby devices that are compatible with AirDrop and display them in a list.
In the list of nearby devices, tap on the device that you want to receive the files.
The recipient will receive a notification that they have received a file and can choose to accept or decline the transfer. The file will be saved to their device if they accept the transfer.
Good to know: you can connect external storage to an iPad if you want to transfer data that is too large for an AirDrop.
How to AirDrop Files Between macOS and iOS/iPadOSSending files from a Mac to an iOS device or vice versa works the same as described above. Follow the same initial steps for macOS or iOS, respectively, and pick the target device in the list.
Receiving AirDrop FilesAssuming that you’ve enabled AirDrop on your macOS, iOS, or iPadOS device and that it’s set to receive files from your contacts or everyone, receiving files is easy.
If you’re receiving files from someone else, you’ll have to choose whether you want to keep the files or reject them. If you don’t want anyone to send you files (some people do this maliciously), change your AirDrop settings to “No one” or “Contacts only” as shown earlier.
Frequently Asked Questions Can I use AirDrop to share files with devices that are not made by Apple?No, AirDrop is only available for use between Apple devices. It uses proprietary technology that is not compatible with devices made by other manufacturers. If you want to share files with a device not made by Apple, you will need to use a different file-sharing method, such as email, a cloud storage service, or a third-party file-sharing app.
Can I share files of any type using AirDrop?Yes, as long as the recipient’s device is compatible with the file type. AirDrop supports the sharing of many different file types, including photos, videos, and documents. However, some file types may not be supported by certain devices, in which case the recipient may not be able to open the file. The recipient may have to download the right type of app on their device to open a file.
Image credit: Unsplash. All screenshots by Sydney Butler.
Sydney Butler
Sydney Butler is a technology writer with a background in Psychology who has written for a wide variety of technology outlets including How-To-Geek, Online Tech Tips, Helpdesk Geek, 9to5Mac, 9to5Google, and many more. He has 25 years of technology troubleshooting experience as a technician and user-education practitioner.
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Canon Pixma Mx372 Review: Simple, Usb
The MX372 is a decent, inexpensive MFP for PC users, but its black ink is pricey, and it has no duplexing support for the Mac.
The $80 (as of May 29, 2012) Canon Pixma MX372 color inkjet multifunction will meet the needs of anyone who prints or scans only a few pages a day. The unit offers a single-sided automatic document feeder for the scanner–surprising for a printer this inexpensive. It lacks an automatic duplexer, however, and it omits manual duplexing support on the Mac; its black-ink costs are high, too.
Paper-handling features for the Pixma MX372 are rudimentary outside of the aforementioned 30-sheet ADF. A 100-sheet input tray sits at the bottom of the unit; paper exits directly above it, landing on the outer part of the input tray. You’ll need to remove output to insert more paper, but that should occur rarely if you think ahead and keep the input tray well stocked. The lid of the Pixma MX372’s A4/letter-size scanner telescopes to accommodate thicker materials.
Canon doesn’t shortchange the Pixma MX372 in the software department, bundling the same applications that accompany Canon’s more expensive printers. The Solution Menu EX software allows access to common scan chores such as OCR, plus printer maintenance and relevant online destinations. Regrettably, manual duplexing support is missing from the OS X driver.
The Pixma MX372’s output is generally easy on the eye, though color graphics have the usual Canon orange cast. This coloring bestows a friendly vibe upon still-life and wildlife photos, but the effect on human faces is slightly comical. Text appears sharp and black, though the edges of letters are a tad soft if you look closely. Grayscale graphics have a slightly purple tinge, so Ansel Adams fans should look elsewhere.
While not terrifically swift, the Pixma MX372 offers good performance for an $80 multifunction printer. Monochrome pages print at 5.9 pages per minute on the PC, and at 6.0 ppm on the Mac. Snapshot photos print at 2.4 ppm to plain paper, and at 1.2 ppm to glossy photo stock; on the latter, the MX372 is significantly faster than its MX432 cousin. A full-page photo takes about 3 minutes. Copies, generated at about 6.6 pages per minute, are very fast, even in comparison with the copy output of pricier MFPs.
The Pixma MX372 has the same ink costs as other Canon printers that utilize the company’s “240” and “241” cartridges. Put simply, black ink is very expensive, while color is decently cheap. The PG-240XL black cartridge costs $21 and lasts for 300 pages, working out to 7 cents per page. The $38, 600-page PG-240XXL, at 6.3 cents per page, isn’t much cheaper.
The $30, 400-page CL-241XL unified-color (three colors, one cartridge) replacement works out to 7.5 cents per page; that cartridge, added to the XXL black, makes for an affordable 13.8 cent four-color page. Caveat: When one color runs out, you must replace the unified cartridge, even though it may have plenty of one or both of the other colors. As a result, printing heavily with one color will alter your ink costs for the worse. The unit ships with 180-page starter cartridges.
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